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hey guys it's jake with building tech

talk

today we're going to go over heat shrink

connectors and terminating them to a

fuse block

from a solar charge controller you can

see we have our

solar wires coming in from our array and

then our cables coming out

to our fuse block we've already got them

kind of where they should be which is

nice you always want to see a little bit

of extra length there

which means number one if there's other

cables and you're strapping to it to try

and keep it

nice and neat you have room to do that

and if you mess one up you've got

tons of room that you can cut it back

further and

still have room to connect it to the

terminal so we'll start with

the positive down here always try and

remember as well to line up on a fuse

block like this

we have our one two three on this side

if we're going to do the bottom one here

for our positive

i'd also choose the bottom one here for

the negatives so tracing cables later

also is easier

you can see there it's a little bit long

we're going to leave it and we're going

to strip it

what i like to do is hold the terminal

that we're

connecting it to up to it so you can see

how long

you need to strip the cable so for that

we're going to say it's about a quarter

inch

we're going to take our cutters

and carefully strip the jacket from

the wire and what you're looking for is

all of the strands to stay nice and

intact and straight

so that when we slide our connector on

we don't have any sticking out

as we slide it in keeping all of the

strands

nice and neat you should be able to see

there that the wire is sticking just at

the end

which shows that you've got nice even

cable coming through and it's going to

terminate nicely

we're going to use these crimpers

these are a nice pair because they have

crimping tool here and also cutter tools

so if you're

looking to save space on your board or

something like that you can always just

keep

a pair of these handy we use

this center crimp here not this other

one as that would

as it pinches down actually pierce

the jacket of the heat shrink which we

don't want to do

so we're going to use this here i'm

going to come on

nice and center of the heat shrink

connector and crimp it down

as this is a bigger gauge 10 wire with

this

i like to take both hands and really

just make sure that it's crimped on

there tight

and then release you have a nice flat

crimp there you can see it crimped down

it didn't pierce the heat shrink

connector jacket and i can pull on it

fairly hard and it's definitely not

going anywhere

the next step for that one would be it

looks good make sure it lines up nicely

with our terminal

and then we're going to heat shrink it

for this

as it's small electronics wiring i'd

usually use

just a butane torch so we can turn this

on

i like to keep these on a lower setting

when doing the heat shrink connectors

if it's too high i often find that it

burns the edge of the jacket and we can

show you that next

just keeping nice even heat

over the heat shrink portion

there we go

so you can see that the wire comes all

the way through it's crimped nice and

flat and now the heat shrink has made

good adhesion to the jacket of the wire

itself

and there's actually glue coming out of

the heat shrink there so that one would

be

ready to terminate here which we can

show you

good thing to remember is to always

check

your rings as you

terminate them the amount of times that

i've

thought that i had the right sized ring

and then gone to connect it and it's

either too large or too small

is you couldn't count it

so just always double check take the

screw out

feed it through the same with even the

bigger bus bars

they're usually 5 16 or 3 8 but it's

nice to just always be able to check and

know

this is the one that's going on there so

then for our negative

what i'll do is i'll actually show you

an incorrect way that you could do this

which would be either

too much insulation being stripped from

the wire or too little

so we can go through both of those it's

always good to practice like you'll

never get it right the first time

if you're not doing it all the time so

practicing

is always great for these time types of

terminations

so this one we're going to strip it too

long we checked with the other one

and we said it was about a quarter inch

this one we're going to go more like

a full inch

a little bit over exaggeration but

that's okay

so again nice strands of wire sticking

up straight and unbent

then you'll see as we slide this on

because there's more

room for it to fray out like this it's

actually harder to slide the connector

on

which can be an indication that maybe

you've got too much

stripped off so you can see i can't even

actually get that

on there nicely and there's strands

twisted up inside the jacket they're

sticking back

out of the insulation and there's

actually bare wire

outside of the heat shrink so if i was

to crimp this on would actually see

that it wasn't covering the jacket

nicely like this one down here

so we'll take that one off we'll

re-measure it

so you cut it about there

you can see now it's cut too short

so if i try and feed it on there now

it's going to feed in nicely

but straight away we just hit the jacket

part of the cable

and as we twist it over we don't see

the copper wire coming outside of this

connector here which is not good it

means it's not making good connection

it's better to have more wire

through there for better connectivity

otherwise over time

poor connectivity can cause issues with

arcing

corrosion everything so we're going to

strip it back to the size it needs to be

like that twist it nicely

feed on our connector it's pushed all

the way out

to the jacket

you can see the cable coming at the end

here the wire coming at the end and

we're going to crimp it

this time we're going to use these

crimpers a bit more of a mechanical tool

i like these more as an everyday use

as you're getting a bit more purchase on

each one and you know

that as you come all the way down

and you hear it click you've crimped it

to exactly what it needs to be

so we're using the yellow heat shrink

connectors we're using the yellow

terminals of these

crimpers it can be hard managing these

tools in your hands so if you're

left-handed or if you're right-handed

i generally will hold

full in my palm like this two fingers to

bring it forward and as i get in

it's making a fist so that you can fully

squeeze that down

and get the termination that you need

so we're going to come on here and

squeeze down a little bit

similar to the other ones right now like

my grip strength isn't enough to close

on that

um so both hands to fully crimp that

down

and release and again you can see nice

flat crimp there

all the way through and good termination

so we could heat shrink that one down

and connect it to our fuse block

so here two coming a little bit close

with the torch

we can see there's a little bit of

charring happening it bubbles in the

plastic of the heat shrink

which causes it to be not as effective

as it could be some of the resin that's

inside starts to leak out

and that's not what we want to see so in

this case i would actually

re-terminate this remove that

take my new heat shrink connector

measure again

restrip it keep wires nice and neat

into the connector make sure i see my

wires sticking out the end of the

connector

take my crimps holding it nice and tight

down against the jacket to make sure

it's fully in

crimp release

and there we go heat that one down

this time we're going to keep the butane

torch a little further away

it's okay to go around a couple times to

try and heat it evenly if you're not

heating it evenly

especially on some of the bigger gauge

wires you can actually end up with

bubbles

inside of the heat shrink so you can see

with that one there

we don't have any charring no bubbling

we didn't see any smoke

that's perfect and ready to terminate

this can be difficult too lining these

up so

sitting it down and putting it in if

it's up on a wall

or underneath your dash or something

like that it's a little bit tricky i

like to feed the screw through so that

it's in there

nicely and then find my termination

point

and screw it

make down it's nice and tight and you

shouldn't be able to move these side to

side

they should be in there nicely coming

out nice and straight

just like that

cover back on

ready thank you for watching this pys

video if you've got further questions

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thanks again for watching

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